The most common mistake when buying a smart lock is skipping the question that should come first: will it actually fit my doors? Aluminium, PVC and timber doors differ in profile, bolting method and leaf thickness, and that decides whether mounting will be simple — or possible at all. This guide sorts it out: the euro cylinder, multipoint locks, retrofit versus replacement, and the operating conditions that are easy to forget.

In short:

  • The key question is the cylinder type (usually euro) and the profile width.
  • Aluminium doors have a narrow profile — the lock must be designed for it.
  • Multipoint locks bolt the leaf in several places at once.
  • A retrofit (swapping the cylinder/drive) is often enough on existing doors.
  • For exterior doors, the IP rating and temperature range matter.

How mounting differs in aluminium, PVC and timber doors

Aluminium doors usually have a narrow profile and are popular in detached houses and commercial buildings in Poland and Germany. A narrow profile means little room for the mechanism, so the lock must be designed for that geometry. PVC doors are often a little wider and also mostly use a euro cylinder and a multipoint strip. Timber doors give the most mounting freedom but vary in thickness and require matching the cylinder length.

The conclusion is simple: there is no "universal" lock for everything. There is a lock well matched to your profile and cylinder. So before buying it is worth measuring the door and checking its bolting layout.

The euro cylinder and multipoint locks

The euro-standard cylinder is the most common format in continental Europe — the same one you know from traditional keys. Its advantage is interchangeability: a smart module that works with a euro cylinder fits the vast majority of aluminium and PVC doors without altering the joinery.

A multipoint lock bolts the leaf in several places at once — top, middle and bottom — which improves security and tightness (important for energy-efficient doors). A good smart lock does not replace the multipoint strip but works with it: the electronics control opening, while the mechanical bolts still do their job. When buying, make sure the module supports your bolting type.

Retrofit or replacement — how to upgrade existing doors

If you have working doors with a euro cylinder, you often need not replace them. A retrofit means swapping just the cylinder or drive for a smart one, keeping the existing strip and leaf. It is the fastest and cheapest route to biometrics and PIN access.

Replacing whole doors makes sense when you are upgrading anyway — for example when improving a building's energy efficiency. Then the best solution is a factory-integrated module in the leaf, fitted by the door maker. That is a topic of special interest to joinery firms — we cover it in a separate post: OEM smart lock for door manufacturers.

A lock starts with the material and geometry of the door, not with the app. Matching the profile and cylinder decides whether mounting takes fifteen minutes or turns out to be impossible.

Power, battery and emergency opening

A smart lock needs power — and that is one point worth thinking through before buying. Battery solutions are simplest to install (no wiring), but need periodic cell changes; a good lock warns of a low battery in advance so it never surprises you at the door. Permanently powered solutions, more common in designed installs and new doors, remove the battery question but require wiring.

Whatever the power source, pay attention to the emergency scenario: what happens on a full discharge or a power cut. Sensible locks provide emergency opening — a mechanical backup cylinder or emergency power — so a lack of energy never means being locked in. Ask the seller this directly.

Mechanical and electronic security — together, not instead

It is easy to focus on the electronics and forget that door resistance also depends on mechanics. The best result comes from combining both layers: a solid cylinder and multipoint strip with smart control. The electronics handle convenience and access control; the bolts and fittings handle physical burglary resistance.

For doors with raised resistance (RC classes) it is worth checking that the smart module does not weaken the structure and works with a certified fitting. A well-designed lock such as Perrugi Palm, with a tempered-glass and aluminium body and anti-tamper sensors, treats both layers as a whole — the electronics are not bolted on at the expense of mechanics, but designed together with them.

Buying checklist

  • What cylinder type do I have? (usually euro)
  • Do the doors have a multipoint strip?
  • What is the profile width and thickness?
  • Does the lock have a suitable IP rating and temperature range?
  • Is a retrofit enough, or am I planning new doors?
  • Do I keep backup methods (PIN, NFC, app)?

DIY or a professional install?

A simple cylinder retrofit in doors with a ready euro strip is something many users will do themselves, following the maker's manual. It gets more complex with narrow aluminium profiles, multipoint doors, and where wiring or sealing is needed. In those cases a professional or the door maker is faster and safer — and for new doors it is simply natural, because the module goes into the leaf during production. Whichever route you choose, keep the manual and the manufacturer's contact at hand — they turn a tricky fitting into a routine one.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Does a smart lock fit aluminium doors?

Yes, if it supports a euro cylinder and fits the narrow aluminium profile — the most common layout in Poland and Germany.

What is a multipoint lock?

A lock that bolts the leaf at several points at once. The smart module should work with it, not replace it.

Can I upgrade doors without replacing them?

Often yes — if the doors have a euro cylinder and a working strip, a cylinder or drive retrofit is enough.

Have specific doors and mounting questions? See the Perrugi Palm spec, download the installation manual or get in touch.